Island Hopping in Greece

Greece is located in southern Europe, where the Aegean, Ionian, and Mediterranean seas meet. Athens is its capital, Greek as its official language, and the euro as its currency. Ancient Greek city-states gave way to Roman conquest and then Byzantine Empire then Ottomans. The Greek influence on western cultures is undeniable. Western politics, architecture, science, mythology, literature and theater all trace origins back to Greece. Athens was the  birthplace of democracy and many of the political structures were borrowed by the Romans which later translated to the wider world. Greek columns and proportions became models for later Roman, Renaissance, and Neoclassical buildings. That is why courthouses, museums, universities, banks, and government buildings around the world often have Doric, Ionic, or Corinthian columns. Foundations of science, medicine and mathematics set by founders such as Pythagoras, Hippocrates and Archimedes all began in this small country. Socrates pushed people to question assumptions and examine how they knew what they claimed to know. Plato explored justice, politics, knowledge, and the ideal society. Aristotle wrote about logic, ethics, biology, politics, rhetoric, and much more. Their ideas shaped education and intellectual life in Europe and the Middle East for centuries. The Olympic Games, originally held in ancient Greece, are one of the clearest surviving examples of Greek emphasis on physical excellence and competition. 

Greece has a Mediterranean climate, with rocky mountain ranges and over 6000 islands surrounded by clear blue waters. Whitewashed villages burst with colorful bogunvilla flowers. Old medieval cities blend with modern hotels. Greek meals are social affairs, full of fresh ingredients, olive oil, wine and specialty cheeses. The beaches are full of tourists lounging and working on a tan. The people are warm and welcoming and the culture is infectious. When you are in Greece, you are family.

We went to Greece with zero bookings beyond our flights. I had researched what islands I wanted to see, and what to do in Athens, and how to get around. It was the most spontaneous trip I have ever taken and such a great success! We started at the Rafina Port and jumped on a fast ferry to Andros. It was a rough day and we were rocking and rolling over the waves, getting soaked! When we docked on the island, we booked a hotel nearby and grabbed a taxi. En route, we learned his family owned a restaurant next to the hotel so we decided to go there for dinner. The taxi driver walked us in, introduced us to his family, ordered us his favorite dishes, and then went on his way. Every bite of the feast was mouthwatering and the owners and staff were so kind, we immediately fell in love. For a couple of days, we lounged at the beach and the pool and wandered around the little town. Each morning, we had breakfast overlooking the turquoise water, sipping on fresh squeezed orange juice. One morning I ordered “toast” and it came as the best ham and cheese panini I had ever tasted. Julie, always making friends, played all day with a sweet little Greek girl. They only had one word in common- No- but somehow they giggled and splashed with sign language and dolls. I loved watching the way the kids were learning to have tolerance and acceptance for all kinds of people and cultures when we traveled the world. 

When we got tired of Andros, we decided to check out the next island. We headed to the ferry depot and the next boat departing was going to Tinos, so on we went. Tinos is a religious island, and a Greek Orthodox Christian pilgrimage site for the Church of Panagia Evangelistria. Patrons travel to the island to seek healing, express gratitude, and leave offerings. We stayed in the little town nearby called Agios Ioannis, which was quiet with just a few hotels. I loved the whitewashed villa we stayed in, with splashes of cerulean blue and sweet salty air coming in the windows. The owner was a motherly old women that loved to speak to us in Greek. She would hold my hands, kiss my babies, say some things and then go about her day. Each morning, Clara would wake up and say “Go? Boat?” I guess she was getting used to this lifestyle. 

Next, we explored Mykonos and Paros, then landed next on Naxos. We took a smaller catamaran, this time enclosed, and it whipped through the waves much faster. Naxos is known for it’s white sandy beaches, ruins and abundant agricultural lands. Because of these food sources, everything served was farmed locally and so fresh. The tomatoes and watermelon were the best I have ever tried. Real greek yogurt with fresh fruit, greek salads with heavy chunks of goat cheese, salty gyros and Greek beer. Enjoying the fresh pizza and pastas sitting at a white linen table with our toes in the sand are some of my most fond memories. Clara lived her best life swimming in the crystal clear water in her floaties and napping on the beach. That lucky duck even got swim lessons from Daddy- imagine getting to say she learned to swim “that summer in Greece.” Lily and Julie chased the birds and made friends and never wanted to leave. We accidentally stumbled upon a nudist beach one day and they didn’t even notice, they were having too much fun in their make believe world. Each hotel we stayed had a pool for after dinner evening swims and everyone slept solid after days of playing in the sun. It was so peaceful. 

As our trip came to a close, we took a ferry back to Athens. The city is bustling, dirty, and has a much higher crime rate than the islands, so we didn’t linger long. We did make time to visit the Parthenon, some Byzantine churches, and the Acropolis. Nestled in between this amazing history are modern neighborhoods with comfortable accommodations and easy walkability to the popular sights. The day we walked to the Acropolis was a pretty hot one. Somehow in the transit we lost Clara’s bottle, and the only option in the local grocery store was a glass baby bottle. I thought it would surely break, so I wrapped it in my scarf and tied it with a hair tie- and Clara was pissed. Nothing sets off a one year old like a brand new baby bottle. She screamed the whole hike up the mountain to the Acropolis until I finally caved and gave her the bottle without the dreaded scarf protection. Finally we could enjoy this wonder of the ancient world!  (By the way, we took that bottle home and she dropped it for months from serious heights and that stupid bottle never broke) 

Greece left a lasting impression on me. The people didn’t seem to have anything in excess, yet they were some of the happiest and warmest people I have encountered on the planet. They were welcoming, inviting everyone into their world like family, and sharing anything they had. The food was incredible, the historical sights were wondrous, and the weather was perfect. I am so thankful we went without a plan and let the wind guide us because we could just relax and take each day as it came. It was a good lesson for me to learn and one I can still appreciate. Greek culture is world altering and distinctive, and I am so lucky I got to experience a small slice of it.