Korcula – A True Croatian Experience

Croatian people are a mixture of Slavs and Croats with a Serb minority. They speak Croatian and English and use the kuna as currency. They practice Roman Catholic, Eastern Orthodox Christianity and Islam. The first Croatian state developed in the 9th century and was ruled by native kings until the crown passed into the hands of the Hungarian dynasty. Further loss of Dalmatia to Venice and then Ottoman conquests brought Croatia under the rule of the Habsburgs and Austria-Hungary. After the defeat of Austria-Hungary in World War I, Croatia joined with other South Slav territories to form Yugoslavia. Croatia declared its own independence in 1991 and after several years of struggle finally joined NATO in 2009. Similar in landscape to Slovenia, the mountain regions are lush with plant life and water sources and the farming land is fertile. The coastline is unmatched in beauty and there are endless pockets to explore. Mainland Croatia is stunning, but nothing can compare to the unique beauty of my favorite island, Korcula.

Korcula
Korcula is a favorite of local Croatians, and after hearing their recommendations we decided to check it out. The 2-hour ferry ride from Split to Korcula Island was lovely. The view of the coast and other islands from the ferry was a great for perspective of the country from the sea. Immediately I could see how this island got its reputation. It is only about 40 km long and maybe 10km wide at its deepest point. Driving from north to south on the island brings you over craggy mountains and rolling hills of agriculture. Everywhere you look is covered in vineyards and pine trees and lusciousness, right up to the dramatic cliffs that give way to the gorgeous turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea.
Korcula town is the perfect place for lunch at an adorable little cafe overlooking the water. The whole town is tiny, with the alleys laid out in a grid pattern and cute little shops all tucked between with apartments above them. You’ll want to take your time to enjoy the view and make friends with the cats.

Another fantastic thing to do on the island is rent your own boat and go exploring around the archipelago of islands. I can’t say it enough, the water is amazing, the most clear I had ever seen. Stop at Badija beach to visit with some wild deer, get lunch at Vela Stupa and find a cool spot to swim. And you can float worry free because the water is absent of predators!
We loved the house we rented, which was a little outside of the main town in Lumbarda. It has a 180 degree view of a valley of vineyards bordered by the three surrounding beaches on the peninsula. We were greeted upon arrival with our host on his motorcycle in flip flops and no helmet, gesturing for us to follow him up a steep driveway. He gave us a tour and then invited us to the patio for his own homemade wine from his vineyard. He told us about his life and his family and how he had built the house and rentals himself from scratch. We immediately appreciated his warmth and pride for his island home.
Everyone we encountered on the island had the same hospitable, relaxed nature. It felt slower paced and welcoming, not very crowded and more down to earth than the other areas of Croatia we explored. It feels like a more authentic experience to visit with real people, and not because they are trying to sell you something.

The food was also delightful with fresh ingredients and lots of flavors. We did try the local drink Rakija with our dinner, and Travarica which was a bit like Italian Grappa infused with herbs. I couldn’t do it but Lily took one for the team. We loved the restaurant Konoba Mate, which had just received a Michelin star. You should try and make a reservation because the word has gotten out about its unique menu bursting with flavors!
What else can you do on Korcula? Visit a winery and support local vintners. Check out some beaches such as Bacva Beach, Vaja Beach or Bilin Zal. Visit the town of Vela Luka and explore the shops there.
There are many amazing areas of Croatia to visit. The Plitvice Lakes National Park is absolutely worth some time, and Dubrovnik is everything you imagine it will be. I was underwhelmed with Split and in hindsight should have spent less time there. Cruising around the Adriatic Sea on a yacht or ship is an experience you will never regret! However, when planning a trip to Croatia, I highly recommend spending a few days on Korcula to connect with the culture and experience true Croatian hospitality.